Drove down after inexcusably leaving work early. Amped for some surf. arrived after dark and walked down to the beach. There was the unmistakeable roar of hundreds of tons of water dumping onto the beach bigtime . tried to get a signal from where I was parked but under a hill in Ndevon and no go. turned in for bed it was after 11 and I was still seeing the highway in my mind

this am dawned VERY VERY COLD BUT COOKING. killer south easterly winds blowing back huge plumes of spray into your face as you paddle your heart out to pull into a beast.
had a couple of well, well double overhead waves today. Not nearly as big as yesterday but I was cramping very badly from the cold. the campervan is like a fridge and I am hoping for a classic sunday morning session. I have never felt closer to God than in the big moving ocean early in the morning . I will post some pics later but this had some news but page prob outdated nowA daily surfcam on the surf at Croyde Bay